Black Peak Expedition
The highest peak in the Saraswati mountain range
Kalanag, also known as Black Peak, stands at an altitude of 6387 meters (20,960 feet) and is the highest peak in the Saraswati mountain range near Ruinsara Valley of the Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand. In the local dialect, Kalanag translates to Black Peak, as the top part of the peak resembles a Black Cobra. It is the most dominant peak of the entire Bandarpunch massif.
The climb to the summit of Black Peak is challenging and technical, providing a gradual ascent from the southern side that eventually leads to a very steep summit climb with a near 70-degree incline and a 75 feet ice wall. This climb is chosen by professional climbers seeking an adventure of a lifetime. Located in the Govind National Park area, known for its diverse flora and fauna, the trail leading to the mountain passes through magnificent alpine meadows, pine forests, moraine ridges, boulders, and glacier basins.
Being the highest peak in the range among Saraswati Devi Parvat (Bandarpunch I, 6316 m) and Hanuman Parvat (White Peak or Bandarpunch II, 6102 m), reaching the summit of Black Peak requires considerable effort and experience, testing the limits of trekkers and mountaineers. The reward for reaching the summit includes unparalleled views of the full Bandarpunch family, making it a significant milestone for aspiring trekkers and mountaineers.
While the other faces of Black Peak are difficult to approach, its North Face is accessible and climbable. The route to the summit is crevasse-laden, requiring careful negotiations. Beyond the summit camp at 5600 meters, the route becomes very steep, demanding good stamina, endurance, and technical skills. However, in the context of Himalayan mountaineering standards, the climb is comparatively easier and can serve as a training ground for amateur mountaineers looking to start their mountaineering journey and get introduced to the challenging terrains of the Great Himalayas.
Details
Start Point: Dehradun , End Point : Dehradun
The journey takes about 8 hours, passing through picturesque villages. Sankri, a beautiful hamlet, serves as a base camp for treks and marks the last village before Govind Balabh Pant Wildlife Sanctuary. Receive expedition details, enjoy dinner, and rest for the night.
Begin your expedition early with a drive to Taluka, 11 km from Sankri. Start your trek from Taluka towards Seema, crossing steep trails and bridges to reach the charming village. Enjoy dinner and stay overnight in tents.
Trek to Ruinsara Lake through trails with alpine flowers. Enjoy captivating views of Swargarohini peaks and the stunning campsite with mountain farming vistas. Ruinsara Lake is linked to the Mahabharata, where the Pandavas were exiled for fourteen years. Camp overnight at Ruinsara Tal.
Reach Kyarkoti Base Camp in 5-6 hours, a grassy patch with a nearby spring, surrounded by boulders and snow-capped mountains. Ideal for honing mountaineering skills and preparing for the Black Peak climb. Camp overnight at Kyarkoti.
Rest at base camp today to acclimatize and prepare equipment for the upcoming summit day. Use the day to ensure you are ready for the climb and adjust to the high altitude.
Trek 4-5 hours from Kyarkoti Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp. Load ferry and shift essential equipment and luggage. Technical guides assess the gradient, route, and environment. Set up advanced camp with the team and rest for the night.
The trail to ABC takes you through grassy land, boulders, a steep climb through landslide areas, then descends to moraine patches and a glacier. Enjoy clear views of Black Peak as you aim to summit. Establish Camp 1, load ferry, and carry essentials. Return to ABC for the night.
Today, repeat the same route as yesterday to establish Camp 1. Follow the trail through grassy land, boulders, and steep climbs, then descend to moraine patches and the glacier. Set up camp and retire for the night.
Move to Summit Camp today, bypassing crevasses to set up camp on a snowfield. Enjoy majestic views of Swargarohini, Bandarpunch, and Black Peak. Prepare for the Black Peak summit attempt the next day. Retire early for a late-night start.
Start at 0200 hours while the snow remains hard, aiming to reach the summit in 7-8 hours. Fix ropes to navigate a 75-100-foot vertical wall. The lead climber opens the steep route to a ridgeline. Reach Black Peak’s flat summit. Descend to summit camp, Camp 1, and possibly base camp.
From base camp, descend to Ruinsara Tal. Spend the day exploring the mythological lake and listen to locals’ stories about Ruinsara and its Mahabharata connections. Enjoy the peaceful setting and retire for the night at the camps.
Descend to Semma village and set up tents. Explore the beautiful village and visit nearby Osla across the river. Discover the Duryodhana temple, Osla’s main attraction, and spend time with locals. Retire for the night in Semma.
Trek back to Taluka from Seema, where a vehicle awaits to drive you to Sankri village. Reflect on and celebrate your successful adventure. Enjoy a comfortable stay in the hotel and relax.
Have breakfast in Sankri village and leave for Dehradun. The journey takes 7-8 hours. Use this travel time to plan your stay in Dehradun or your departure, whether you’re heading to your next destination or staying longer in the city.
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