Traill’s Pass
Pindar Valley to Johar Valley
Traill’s Pass, previously known as “Kanda Khal Pass,” is a mountain pass in the Himalayas with an altitude of 5,311 meters. It is situated between the unnamed southern shoulder of Mt. Nanda Devi East and Changuch (the western shoulder of Mt. Nanda Kot) peaks in the Uttarakhand state, spanning the districts of Bageshwar and Pithoragarh. Located at the end of the Pindari glacier, Traill’s Pass connects the Pindari valley to Milam valley (Lawan Gad) and is renowned for its challenging and difficult crossing.
The pass was first reached in 1830 by G.W. Traill, the inaugural British Deputy Commissioner of the Kumaon division. In 1926, it was crossed by Hugh Ruttledge, and the first crossing in 1830 was attributed to Malak Singh Buda. Both Traill and Everest began their service in India with the East India Company in the early 19th century. The Pindari glacier, often mistaken for a glacier, is actually a massive icefall passing over a steep slope, and a direct ascent has yet to be achieved.
Beyond this icefall lie the icefields of the surrounding heights and the neve basin of the glacier. Since 1830, Traill’s Pass has been attempted by more than 90 teams, but as of now, only 18 teams are known to have successfully attained its summit. The pass stands as a challenging achievement in the history of Himalayan exploration.
Details
Start Point : Kathgodam, End Point : Kathgodam
Our journey begins by boarding an early morning train to Kathgodam, followed by a 7-8 hour drive to the picturesque hill village of Danpur (Khati village) in the lower Kumaon Himalayas.
Khati village marks the end of the Pindari Valley. A brief trek of approximately 1 hour from Kharkiya leads us to Khati, one of the largest and most prosperous villages in the Pindari Valley, where we will camp overnight.
From Dwali, our trek follows the Pindar River to its source at the confluence of the Pindar and Kafani rivers. On clear days, we enjoy stunning views of Nanda Devi East’s summit and the impressive Nanda Khat peak. Overnight camping awaits.
The day is reserved for acclimatization, allowing our team to ferry our loads to the advance base camp on the mountain. We spend the night at the camp, ensuring we’re prepared for the challenges ahead.
With our final loads, we transition to the Advance Base Camp, an open meadow known as Thakta Kharak Camp. The trail ascends steeply through a grassy slope, followed by a descent to a local stream and another ascent to the ABC. Here, we enjoy spectacular views of the Pindari Valley giants and the impressive Pindari Ice Fall.
Today, our team will load – ferry to Camp 1 and conduct rope fixing on two rock faces. This day allows for complete rest or short walks around Thakta Kharak Camp for acclimatization. Overnight camping at the campsite.
We begin by ascending the glacier to reach the base of the 300-meter rock wall, comprising a mix of rocks, snow, and ice, presenting challenges at certain sections. However, it rewards us with the first view of Traill’s Pass and panoramic vistas of Pindari Valley and Johar Valley.
Today begins with crossing the vast ice fields of the Pindari and Nanda Khat Glacier to reach Traill’s Pass, encircled by towering mountains. The pass provides breathtaking panoramic views of Nanda Devi, Nanda Devi East, Nanda Lapak, Changuch, Nanda Khat, Raj-Rambha, Sutela, and surrounding peaks.
A brief stroll across the moraine leads us to the Bhadeli Gwar fields, serving as a base camp for climbing Nanda Devi East and other peaks in the valley. With ample time available, we can relax and admire the landscape’s transformation, dominated by peaks like Nanda Devi East, Nanda Kot, Changuch, and Kuchela Dhura.
Descending from the Nanda Devi East base camp along the River Lawan, we proceed towards Martoli, a quaint shepherd camp nestled alongside the river. We settle for the night at our overnight campsite.
We trek alongside the river to reach our camp at Bugudiyar. Nahar Devi hosts a small cluster of shops where locals gather in the evening, offering an opportunity to share our adventures and forge new friendships. Overnight camping awaits.
Crossing Meen Singh Top, the trail leads to the quaint village of Lilam by the banks of the Gori Ganga River, then onwards to Dhaba, marking the end of our trek. A brief 1-hour drive takes us to Munsiyari for overnight accommodation in a hotel.
We depart for Kathgodam, passing through Almora, Bhowali, and Bhimtal, before boarding the train to Delhi. With this, our trip concludes, filled with memories of the scenic landscapes and cultural experiences encountered along the way.
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